Should you enjoy a glass of vino at the Am Hof Christmas market, you’re following in ancient footsteps. The same location hosted a wine market as early as 1358 (the main difference being a lack of an ATM back then).
- Includes a unique arts and crafts section
- Strong variety of food and drink
- Popular with locals
- Close to the Freyung market
- Expect around 70 stands
- 2024 dates: Nov 15 – Dec 23
- Book a concert experience* for your trip
- Nearby:
- See also:
The market
(View into the market with the Kirche Am Hof church and Park Hyatt Vienna hotel behind)
Am Hof is a large central square in Vienna rich in historical atmosphere.
Henry II, the Babenberg Duke of Austria resided here in the 12th century, which hints at the age of this part of the city.
Inevitably, then, a fair few older sites surround the stalls of the Am Hof Christmas market.
Mozart first performed in Vienna at Palais Collalto, for example, and the imposing Kirche am Hof church dates back as far as the 14th century (the façade is a mere 350 years old, mind you); three popes have spoken from the balcony.
Painting by Carl Pippich of the Am Hof Christkindlmarkt in 1901; Wien Museum Inv.-Nr. 33925; excerpt reproduced under the terms of the CC BY 4.0 license; photo by Birgit and Peter Kainz, Wien Museum)
The Mariensäule column that resides at the centre of the market gives thanks to the Virgin Mary for the Swedish army’s decision to do a detour around Vienna back in 1645.
That diversion proved quite fortunate for the city, because those 17th-century Swedes wielded swords rather than smartphones.
The square has actually hosted markets for centuries, but the first Christmas one here appeared just as Charles Dickens began work on a story about a miserly old fellow named Scrooge (a tale you can see come to life each year in Vienna in English courtesy of Open House Theatre).
Today’s Am Hof Christmas market is ideal for those who like their sights and activities packed together, being close to, for example, the Hofburg palace complex in the city centre and a short walk from the Freyung Christmas market.
Think of the location as made up of two parts.
The first part is the Kunsthandwerkmarkt (arts and crafts market), which typically features just over 20 huts selling, well, “arts and crafts”. This is not your run-of-the-mill craft market, though.
Unlike most market stands, you can go into some of these. You essentially have a wide aisle of miniature shops (handy for lifting your spirits if the weather turns grim).
The items on sale also possess a certain level of artistic quality; if you’re looking for unique gifts, consider this a decent place to start.
(View down the art & crafts section. The building at the rear has a cannonball from the 1686 siege of Vienna hanging outside it)
Expect plenty of variety. Last time out, this meant everything from art deco candle holders and original drawings to beer bottle clocks, stained glass cats, and turnery wood.
The second part consists of the more traditional Christmas market featuring the classics, like decorations, punch, honeys, jams, ceramics, jewellery, accessories, textiles, and more. And the all-important ATM.
Am Hof feels as if it offers a wider range of food and drink than at many of the other Viennese markets. For example, it has always boasted a champagne bar in recent years.
You certainly won’t go hungry.
(Entrance to the last edition of the market with the church and hotel in the background again)
Last year’s market had stands selling local favourites like langos, roast nuts, chocolate-coated fruits, Lebkuchen, soups, Alpine cheeses, Baumkuchen (cakes baked on a spit), Tyrolean specialties like Gröstl (fried potatoes and mincemeat), open cured ham sandwiches, sausages, oven potatoes, and more.
A few gastronomic imports made an appearance, too, such as French nougat, raclette (with the mouthwatering scent of melted cheese), bubble waffles and churros.
Even as a vegetarian, I loved the look of the traditional stand selling great strings of sausages in all their forms, which always adds a medieval feel to that particular corner of the market.
Before or after your visit, head toward the very centre of the city from here to see the Christmas lights in the pedestrianised zone along the Graben and Kohlmarkt.
That walk also takes you to other markets, like the one on Stephansplatz. And allows you to combine a market visit with an atmospheric evening concert at, for example, the Peterskirche church or Stephansdom cathedral.
(Bar tables for your convenience)
2024 dates & times
The 2024 Am Hof market plans to run from November 15th to December 23rd with these opening times:
- 11am to 9pm (Mon-Thurs)
- 10am to 9pm (Fri-Sun and public holidays)
- Food & drink served an hour longer
How to get to Am Hof
The Christmas market is right in the centre of town (it used to be the *actual* centre of medieval Vienna). You even pass the square on Part 4 of my recommended self-guided walking tour route of the city.
Subway: U1 (Stephansplatz), U3 (Herrengasse) or U2 (Schottentor). Each is a short walk from Am Hof, or you can catch one of the bus lines below
Bus: The market is within a quick walk of various bus stops, including Graben/Petersplatz (1A or 2A), Schwertgasse (1A or 3A) and Teinfaltstraße (1A)
Address: Am Hof, 1010 Vienna | Website